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Hello fellow cosplayers/crafters!
So today, I was asked how I made my feathers for my Griselda (Odin Sphere) wings using craft foam and… well… I was on mobile and Tumblr ate it.
So I’ll make one with pictures!
It won’t be that great but oh well…. It’s only a small tuto…
What you need:
- Craft foam
- Scupting tool/exacto knife/cutter (something to make creases)
- Scissors or a cutter (to cut)
- Hot glue/hot glue gun
- Acrylic paint or spray paint (whichever you prefer)
- (optional) White primer
- (optional) Glitters
STEP 1: Cut the feathers.
Be creative. Make ovals ones, banana shaped, whatever you want them to look like! I drew templates on paper and traced over them because I wanted them to have a specific form. Cut them with scissors or a cutter. I used scissors to have that sort of angle and irregular borders.
STEP 2: Make patterns.
You want it to look legit, right? Well, you got to put effort and patience in it! To guide my b
ladehand so it doesn’t look like a mess, I crease a line in the middle to know where the center of my feather is. Follow the shape, don’t make a straight line or it won’t look natural!
Next, make diagonal lines toward the line you just made. You can make both sides symetrical or you can be irregular like me. Be creative!
STEP 3: Add details!
Now that you made them look like this, they look like leaves, right? Don’t worry! We’ll fix that with an exacto knife! Cut little triangles on your feather just like when you split the little hair on a real feather! It’ll look better and more feather-ish.
STEP 4: Hot glue details!
It looks ready to go, right? Wrong! See that white line on this real feather?
Well, you want THAT. So use hot glue on that line you made that you thought useless! Be very patient because you can easily mess up! Hot glue tends to love making air bubbles or huge SURPRISE LUMPS! So be slow, go back and forth and if you mess up, rip the glue off and start again.Try to loosen up the trigger at the end to have a smaller line.
ALSO, be mindful that hot glue leaves small dingly hot glue strings if you don’t clean it off well! it can drag your feathers together and mutate them or even flip over on your desk and that’s just the worst thing you’ll ever experience.
Be careful not to burn yourself
STEP 4: OPTIONAL Prime the feathers!
This step is optional but recommended if you don’t use spray paint to color them. Why? Because the hot glue doesn’t like acrylic paint and it’ll still be visible even if you put multiple layers. So prime your feathers with whatever white primer you like IN A WELL VENTILLATED AREA. Let it dry. (Mine took 20 minutes to dry but just follow what the instructions tells you depending on your brand.) You can do both sides or add an other coat,
but I didn’t because I’m lazy.
STEP 5: Painting the feathers!
Here comes the fun part! Use some acrylic paint or spray paint to color them! Obviously, you know how to use a can of spray paint, so I won’t bother explaining this. You want to do it with acrylic? GREAT! So get your paint ready and start mixing the colors you want! (I recommend priming your feathers first because of the hot glue problem and you’ll need 2 layers of paint if you didn’t prime them)
Apply a first coat of your base color on your feather. Move your brush on the same direction as the lines you did so you don’t see random vertical lines, plus, more realistic!
When it’s fully dry, you can add highlights! I usually add a lighter shade of the base color all along the feather line thinggy and spread to the outside of the feather but not all the way! Then I add a darker shade on the upper edges of the feathers
because you know… it’s nice.
If you don’t want to add glitters, you’re done! Congrats to you!
STEP 6: Add glitters!
You want to feel like a princess? Or you just like sparkling things…? Then let’s add glitters!! I got mine really cheap at Walmart. (Martha Stewart crafts. Be mindful that these makes your feathers just a LITTLE bit darker)
What I like to do is start from the feather line and spread it towards the outside and add a few on the borders. Put a few on the feather line to have that extra spark! And like painting, go the same direction as the diagonal lines to avoid the lines.
Sparkles got in the creases? AWESOME. It’ll be extra sparkly!
AND YOU’RE DONE!!
Now assemble it however you like with hot glue. It made nice wings like these
or a pretty headdress that I never posted!
*Be aware that the feathers will easily bend because it’s still craft foam after all!
**You can do the same process on the back of the feather if you’d like.
***The thickness of the craft foam depends from sheet to sheet! I got some who were thinner than others. I got mine at my local art supply store OmerDeserres and they were very irregular (8.5x11 sheets) compared to the ones I got at Walmart. (I think they’re 5x8?? but it comes in packs of 50!!! )
NOW YOU SHALL MAKE THESE FOOLISH MORTALS KNEEL BEFORE YOU!
Sorrynotsorry for the long post. (≧∇≦)/
Sadly it’s not as detailed as the other tutorial, but I didn’t intend to make one first and so I had to use the pictures I had.
So you wanna be an animal..or partially an animal..fine, you just want ears because they’re super cute and you’re over the faun thing. I’ve got your back. Of course, there are tons of different ears out there and there are simpler ways to do this, but…let’s take our ears up to 11. Or 7.
What you need:
- fabric for the interior and exterior of your ears (this can vary depending on what you want but I used faux fur and felt)
- plastic canvas
- armature wire
- sewing machine, thread, needles, scissors
First! Figure out the shape of your animal’s ears. Remember, ears aren’t flat (usually). They’re fully three-dimensional body parts. Play around with some paper first and figure out what you want them to look like.
I chose rabbit ears. I could do this more easily by flattening them but I wanted them more realistic. I cut out the pieces.
I cut out 2 pieces for the interior of the ear of felt, 2 for the exterior of faux fur, and I also cut out 2 pattern pieces out of plastic canvas. The plastic canvas…let’s talk about that for a sec. Plastic canvas is that stuff that old ladies make tissue box covers out of or book marks. Not insulting them, we’re just using it for a different purpose. Try to buy the plastic canvas with the finest or smallest grid possible. We’ll be using this on the inside of the ears as a support for the ear, the “cartilage” if you will. Just trust me on this.
Sew your ear fabrics together, right sides in. Flip them right-sides out. They’re pretty cute just like that! But…let’s push ourselves further.
Look at my nail polish! I’m in love with it. But back to business. Now here is where the whole process sloooooowwwwssss way down. You want to stitch your armature wire to the plastic canvas. Leave at least 4 inches of wire on both ends of the plastic canvas. But why are we wasting our time with this? It makes perfect sense! I promise. Basically, what I’m trying to do here is eliminate a need for extra stitching on the outside of the ear once it’s finished and allow the wire to move the entire ear with the plastic canvas support like a real ear would move. You’ll also be able to position and reposition this all you want.
Stick the whole plastic canvas/wire thingy inside the pocket of your ears. Whoa! You’ve got ears! I left a few inches of wire on both ends of the plastic canvas. This is important because you can then either wrap the wire around a headband and plop it on your head OR you can stick the wires through a wig and onto a headband for support and an invisible way to attach it. You could also sew it directly onto a wig. My ears are too tall for this and need the extra support of a headband under my wig, but whatever you choose to do is all personal preference.
You should totally add a flower crown because that will be all like woodland creature royalty stuff. Just saying.
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Casting clear gems with EpoxACast
Short, written tutorial [video has more information, this is just a little summary!]:
- Chavant NSP Medium
- Oomoo 30
- Ease Release 200
- EpoxACast 690 Clear
- hotglue gun
ATTENTION!! Your health and safety should always come first! Please read the safety instructions that come with the materials and follow them!
- The basic shape of the gem is cut from clay.
- The facets are cut into it and smoothened with water
- The silicone is being mixed. Attention! Please follow the safety instructions for working with silicone! Mixing ratio is 1:1 and you’re done mixing once there are no pink or blue stains in the silicone.
- Only when all air bubbles have vanished (yet before pot life expires), the silicone is poured in a thin stream from the deepest point of the moldbox.
- After 6 hrs the silicone has cured. Before mixing and pouring the resin, I used a release agent. When working with resin, you have to follow the safety instructions and protect your skin, eyes and respiratory system by wearing the necessary protection and working in a well ventilated area! Mixing ratio is 100 parts of epoxy to 30 parts of hardener. Use a kitchen scale to measure, stir carefully so there will be no bubbles, pour carefully.
- After 24 hours the epoxy is cured and hard. You can now demold it.
- Pro-tip: Put mirrorfoil behind it for le shine!
You can find aditional information about the materials and possibilities this technique gives you in my facebook-gallery on this topic!
Sewing Lycra / Spandex / Elastine by Sewing Parts Online
View the full tutorial here:
These were made with mirror vinyl (bought from a Chinese seller) over craft foam held together with various glues.
Use the following chart when adhering materials so they stick well:
- Vinyl front to vinyl front: Super Glue / Krazy Glue
- Foam to vinyl front: Coat the foam in a very thin layer of hot glue, let it dry, then use Super Glue / Krazy Glue
- Foam to vinyl backing: Contact Cement / Contact Spray
- Foam to foam: Hot Glue (or your favorite method…this is my preferred)
Others have used contact cement to hold the foam to the vinyl backing but because contact cement smells like death to me, I prefer the contact spray adhesive instead.
Really love using this method as it’s fast, easy, and light. Luckily, my armor did not have any complex curves because if it did, I would have used Worbla instead.